Heater Blower Motor Solution - IMProved Alternative to Factory One

[John A. Ross]

Heater Blower Motor Solution - IMProved Alternative to Factory One

I know, bad pun, over used and cheesy but hey still fun

The overhaul of the standard heter blower assembly can be seen here however it is effectively just a fan in a box, better alternatives exist and one of these solutions is to drop in a bilge pump fan, better CFM, slightly less current, full plastic and sealed against water and moisture, after all it pumps water !

Details of the motor itself, dimensions and the modifications needed to make it fit. All the changes are internal, externally the motor looks like factory (just better ).


















It is important to cut as shown, this motor is the larger one of choice for this mod and it will fit in almost perfectly as an interference fit with no foam packing or other stuff needed.

I will add the source when I find my original FB write up which included the supplier links.

So here we have the same as before, we need to take the shell of the blower housing clean de-rust and coat it,

I chose a really tacky quick drying paint on this one and just brushed it on, the times spent to setup the spray area anc clean guns was not worth it.






So like a standard rebuild we now have our "ingredients"



So prepared as we are an the prep/cut list from the start of this article we move ahead with modifying the pump itself.

NOTE OF CAUTION

Do not ever assume anything new actually works, test it first and not the direction of air flow and put big black arrow on side, !!


And we have slice and dice time.




See next post for more ......

[John A. Ross]

As can be seen the bilge pump motor is already mounted as a single assembly with the housing so makes for a very easy mount , no screws required











As you can see the motor is a tight fit, even better the conical end of the bilge motor "snuggles" and centers itself when inserted into the casing, so that is one end of the fixing sorted.

Now lets mount it, we have to first prep the casing by ading in a scred for grounding the motor iteslf, in this case it was chosen to exit the wiress through the cable grommet and ground on the outside, process is same old standard, tap flat end of screw head, so it bits down and does not rotate when tightened down






So time to prep the parts for final assembly

First fit the cable exit grommet for the wires, then add a generous bead of acrylic sealer (make sure it is acrylic adhesive/sealer) on the conical end of the outer metallic housing



And now thread the wires through and taking NOTE of the big arrow you marked on the motor earlier fit the motor in and center it on bas, that part is now done.




Leave the acrylic to set at bottom, that will make sure it stays put.

Now, essential to seal the air box end well, we want everything going through the motor !



See next post for more ....

[John A. Ross]

Deed done, see below, we had a bit of a session on these, did a few of these all in one evening, much better doing this in a group, great laugh, Paul finishing his up.



Mr Conroys is now in and working, mine is installed but car is not on the road yet

Dave Lane has another mod for the vent box including a defelctor to help get air in the fan.

As you can see the motor is still a 4A drive from 12V but that comes under a standard motor. It also boasts a 330cfm flow rate, considerably more than the motor originally. That being said it is not comapring apples with apples as the bilge motor is intended to move fluid, not air.

Noise wise i need to say that it is about the same, no bonus there.

These motors are available in smaller diameters but will ned some packing to re-center

Thats all, edits will follow with supplier details as soon as i find my original write up.