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Hillman Imp Sunbeam Singer Chamois Works Dash Binnacles
Saying that if you pick from the current line ups on smiths modern ones, not cheap either. There "drive to set" speedo has a lot going for it but the LCD spoils the look a bit for me.
How does changing these in the cars you do affect calibration Mike, o you need to send them out for recal ?
Hi John yes i just send them away to be re-callibrated. As i am usually doing this sort of work for customers it is way cheaper for me to remove clock post and re-fit. If i was to spend time doing a one off job, learning as i go and buying parts at retail price it would cost way more. If you are doing it for yourself i am sure it can be done. This is the company i use https://speedycables.com/contact-us/
Cheers Mike, it was not something I considered but seem to be a few around now and the look is growing on me but then I give myself a slap in the face for thinking of doing something else before finishing what I started
The shocks are not on yet and I am thinking dash. Mainly as the smniths tacho I put back where DDG originally had it and although it might be what the car was, I think its a horrid place.
Will see !
I have a pile of other stuff I need to clear before getting back to the car, including the welding marathon on our beloved transit van, the joys
I would only consider fitting genuine rebuilt lotus clocks if it was going to be a true replica or a restoration of a proper works car or if the customer wanted them. There are plenty of period looking gauges if you just like the style and layout of the works dash. I would use the more available 80mm clocks as the dash is very cramped with 100mm gauges. The best thing you can do when doing this conversion is wire all the clocks and lights etc and fit a multi plug so if a lamp fails it is easier to remove the whole binnacle rather than risking knocking wires off when reaching into the back of the dash and then trying to work out which goes back on which spade. I can have my dash binnacle out and on the bench in minutes i designed the installation in such a way everything is captive. in fact the whole car is designed in such a way that 1 man can dismantle the whole car as everything that is bolted to the car is captive nut, stud or on quick release fittings. On rallies i do you do not have a service crew and on the road sections you 30 mins lateness so anything that can be swapped in say 25 mins can be done (i.e. no point carrying a spare dive shaft) I only carry 1 allen key 3 spanners and a flat and posi screwdriver and anything that can be fixed in 25 mins can be swapped. Anything more than that you are out of the rally anyway.
I wired the whole car modular Mike, all controls for stuff at back is at back including point of load switching and supplies and fuses, most cables now running around are just control cables.
Back control module and fuse bar
Front relay bar and fuses.
Back realy bar in place, all the wiring is now internal as I had the back wings off I added channel for them
Does have one screw up somewhere though, schematics are fine, but must have one of the relays wired wrong as have 100ma or so drain when ignition is off. Just need to get a hand one day to find it.
Does have one screw up somewhere though, schematics are fine, but must have one of the relays wired wrong as have 100ma or so drain when ignition is off. Just need to get a hand one day to find it.
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