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The bushes are a fit in the arms and the stainless steel tube is meant to spin/pivot inside them so the tube wants to be 35.1 appox so the suspension plates grip it with a small amount of load on the rim of the top hats to stop forward and aft movement but allow the bushes to turn on the stainless steel tube.
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Thanks for that top tip Mike, experience makes the difference
I cut mine to same length as the MK 1 should be and left it at that. No ill affects but time will tell I guess. Know i know if they fail early !
/ John -
On my rally car i fitted all the brackets to the car and then made sure all the holes line up front bracket to front bracket and front to rear on the rack pan. I had to weld the holes up and re-drill to get them perfectly in line. This ensured the wishbone would pivot parallel and not make the bushes bind on the brackets. The wishbone could be lifted and let fall with as low a resistance as possible with the poly bushes. If you have rubber bushes or incorrectly aligned or fitted poly bushes this drag alters the rise and fall required on the wishbone like putting on a stiffer spring or turning up the re-bound damping. If you remove the resistance so the damper and spring are the only things altering the rate of rise and fall then you have a smoother ride and more control over the settings. Like fitting rose joint bearings to the arms, well as close as you can get. The brackets that fit to the car and rack pan (vertical bolts) should always be left loose until you have tightened the wishbone pivot bolts this allows better alignment (and ease of fitting) a good tip is to weld a bar across the top of the two bolts that hang down from the rack pan bracket so the nuts can be tightened with the rack pan bolted up to the car.Comment
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Mike
Top advice as always
The weld the bar across the bolts, learned that lesson long ago
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In fact I think Roy McBride actually does a laser cut plate to do it, nice job but just as easy to weld some flat bar and a small tang to the bracket to prevent it dis-appearing up inside. My current one is a MK1 so the small tang works, more of a nuisance on MK2 with slots.
Did you get sorted with MK 1 brackets ?
Never thought to check the line of the bushes front to back, mines rise/fall very smooth. Is it common to see wishbones that are so twisted on a road car that the line through the front/back bushes is off so much as they bind on the brackets ?
John
/ JohnComment
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Hard to tell on a car with standard bushes as there is so much drag there anyway hence the advice from some people to only tighten the wishbone pivot bolts when the car is on the ground rather than wishbones at full droop. When i mocked up my suspension with the poly bushes it was not a smooth to rise and fall as i wanted. When the car was fully mocked up and settled on the flat bed we checked the car for square using a string box kit i made (another thread for that i think) the car was square for wheel alignment to within .5 mm from that point i could dial in the suspension angle i wanted. I am sorted for MK1 brackets thanks i may reveal what i am doing if it works but it will be a mismatch of MK1&2 suspension components.Comment
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The string box sounds interesting, I currently use two of the laser levels I got from Aldis across the rear wheels and a set of "rifle sights" I made up for the front wheels. Don't think I have used the CamberRite ones since I got them.
I never seem to be able to manage getting it quite right though (the maths and trig I am OK with) so must be technique.
I dont generally have to keep doing it though while adjusting height and checking camber like yourself, but a friend of mine Andrew Laird was looking to tinker so I will point him here and I am sure Colimp66 will be interested for setting his up.
Is it a similar method to what I use to set the placement of the suspension points on the underbelly. I can get the suspension square at all 4 points using a box and dual diagonals to set square with car upside down (and checking dimensions of body markers)
John/ JohnComment
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For checking all four wheels aligned no trig required. Just fit the kit, string equally measured from centre of wheels i.e. end of drive shafts and stub axles until the car is in a square box then measure using a steel rule 3 o-clock and 9 o-clock position on each wheel. If you have 5 mm longer at the 9 position then the wheel is toeing in. https://www.bg-racing.co.uk/B-G%20Ra...ring-lines-kit i made my own and accuracy needs to be top notch. To be fair if you are using the kit a lot it is cheap but for a one off expensive. If you do not have the flat bed and turntables even more expense, you can get good results if you pick a flat floor and after each measurement and adjustment you roll the car backwards and forwards bouncing the suspension and turning steering whilst rolling you will get close enough even for the best clubman racer. Just got to be really careful not to move strings one set, when you crawl under car to adjust something or move car to re-settle suspension and remove any twist from the tyre tread. There are some good camber gauges and bad if you get the magnetic stick on the centre of hub with a bubble in it from the net for a £5 then i would not trust it too much but again a longacre kit at race team £££'s is too much https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p...r-gauge-adaccg buy a second hand one of these or borrow one you can drop it all you want and the string will not go out of calibration. Lasers and bubbles will go out of tolerance if bashed about and a rally team on the move packing and unpacking trucks etc things can get damaged and. will add details of a home made tracking bar and its uses.Comment
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Cheers Mike, I havea calibrated INC or at least one that calibrates well on a known flat surface
The Camberite below lives in my toolbox mostly unused for some time now.
Those little ones though if checked on digital side (ignore the bubble as its a waste of space) i found quite good especially in setting up our hacnine beds at work, on a good straight edge they will do .3 deg easy.
Used a few of them to get H mounts in right place just a tad higher than they should be, car tracked great on the table.
But yes, the dishes and so on get to be expensive if not used all the time.
Great pointers again Mike, many thanks for sharing your experience, learn something new from evey post.
/ JohnComment
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