Transaxale tools and rebuild

[Gary Whitaker]

That's great Dave I might end up with one just like it ?

[Dave Lane]

That's great Dave I might end up with one just like it ?

Im positive yours will work fine - mine just lights up now

[Gary Whitaker]

You can now put the input shaft inner needle roller bearing in

[Gary Whitaker]

With a new tolerance ring you will need RG 366 to fit the inner race. The Idea is for it to be a tight fit on the input shaft so it can only rotate with the shaft if it's good push fit it will probably be ok but if it slack it's no good I have a few new ones ,Malcolm may have some, if you can't get any and yours is loose I'd suggest a bit of loctite bearing fit

[Gary Whitaker]

RG366 can be used to remove and replace the inner race to use it you just turn the centre section round

[Gary Whitaker]

Screw the threaded end into the input shaft locate the pins or screws through the 2 holes in the tool and race and wind into place when to stops loosen and remove the screws don't drop them in the box !!
Remove the RG366 the inner race should now be fitted to the correct depth according to the manual.
I've found it won't be just slide the muff coupling over the shaft up to the race and give it a slight tap with a hard hammer stop when you hear the note change it won't take much

[Gary Whitaker]

Now select 2 gears to lock the box .
clean the threads, use loctite 270 and tighten in 3 stages as per manual unlock the box at each stage and turn the pinion shaft to centralise the bearings.
Your bushes are now clamped your bearing preload is set just check again with the spring balance just as we did earlier.
I didn't take a pic of this but as they say on blue Peter here's one I did earlier

[Gary Whitaker]

Taking a break back later ?

[John A. Ross]

Gary, awesoime work and many thanks for taking all the time to share. Brill

[Gary Whitaker]

In the manual you put the clutch part of the input shaft in next but I prefer to leave it out at this stage so you don't knock it as you move the box around

[Gary Whitaker]

Differential next
taken apart as mine was very dirty and wanted to check the wear on the pin

[Gary Whitaker]

Before you take out the 4 gears mark them so they go back the same way this is a later one so it has the 2 thrust washers don't remove the crown wheel unless you're changing it if you are you will need to change the pinion too they are matched pairs ,if you have a few boxes don't mix them up
the centre pin is held in by a simple seloc pin
With the crown wheel in place you can get the gears in and out ok but it takes a few goes as you end up with the last gear you put in out of place but don't give up you just have to lift at one corner and wiggle it in. Fit the new bearings make sure they are up to the shoulder be careful not to damage the casing

[Gary Whitaker]

Now you need some screwed sleeves to go with them.
one side is larger than the other the larger side has a spacer. Don't no why I asked Dave Weedon ,he didn't know either
The only thing I can think is when they originally built the box they found it needed a bit more adjustment so they put a spacer in ?
They are normally pretty grubby when they come out stuck up with sealant so give them a good clean be careful not damage the fine thread inside.
New orings are available from the club

[Gary Whitaker]

Oil the threads and use fine wet and dry where the oring sits

[Gary Whitaker]

Fit the bearing cases there not right they are a slide fit so the inner sleeve can adjust them they stay in place by the preload force only