Transaxale tools and rebuild

[John A. Ross]

Nice work Gary, now we can move around again I know where some grearbox bits sit, if they are free to grab I will bag them for you, will be an extra box to compare although i think the bellhousings and shaft is missing

[Gary Whitaker]

Anything is useful I think we've got to that time where we have to be careful what we through away.

The preload on the rear pinion head bearing came within the limits and it had no shim's in if you remember the manual said it should have so they must have issues holding size on the bearing housing and it was just accounted for on assembly just like any normal engineering shop of the day

[John A. Ross]

I will grab whatever is there gary

[Gary Whitaker]

Hi ok now to start building the main shaft because we are fitting new bearings we have to recheck the the selective washers am also fitting new bushes as mine were worn .
In the pic's you will see old bushes as it's just to show how it's done ,this is a later box so no 3rd selective washer.
We use pinion head tool again for this
1st fit the bearing

[Gary Whitaker]

Then the 4th gear bush

[Gary Whitaker]

Then 1st selective washer

[Gary Whitaker]

Next is 1/2nd synchro hub this is the one that only has one groove in the outside diameter

[Gary Whitaker]

Now you have to use the spacer from the tool to push down and feel for end float ,change the 1st selective washer to just get a dragging feel

[Gary Whitaker]

Now for second gear bush the one with the two small slots but it slides over a spacer tube again which comes with the pinion head tool

[Gary Whitaker]

Bush and selective washer the only one that has two pin holes in

[Gary Whitaker]

Next 3rd gear bush and the spacer pushing down to check endfloat select a thicker or thinner spacer to get the dragging feel

[Gary Whitaker]

Now you have the bushes and spacer selected .
4th selective washer is done on assembly which is next you can now fit the bearing to the pinion head
Put a bit of oil on fit it in the casting standing on a 2" block of wood so yo can rotate the casing

[Gary Whitaker]

Now with the casting empty fit the next casting and tighten fully fit the thickest preload washer and tighten in stages as it says in the manual use reverse gear and a bolt to lock the pinion

[Gary Whitaker]

Now check the preload as per your manual for new bearings 6 to 12lb.
if you've never done it before it feels very tight to turn but you need it for the rigidity of the box and it will drop once you've covered a few miles .
A new gearbox needs running in just like an engine mine came out at 10lb I had to go.004" thinner than the original shim .If you remember the rear pinion bearing housing had no shims and the manual said I had to make it up to .032" that would have brought it out of tolerance for the shims to correct ,so they must have had problems holding size at the factory . conclusion is if you change the rear pinion bearing put back the same shims you took out.

[Gary Whitaker]

Now you have your preload shim sorted you can build the box put the pinion head on a block as before and start with the 1st shim and bearing then 1st gear