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RG373 Hypoid and pinion bearing tool For backlash setting and preload of bearings.
these were probably the most difficult to remake as I have no milling machine but in the end they came out better than expected
Fitting bearings today I've worked out the shim required for the pinion shaft bearing and it has worked out the same as the shims that came out.
Mike is most likely correct that the bearing tolerance are much the same today as they were them it's the boxes that had the issue
I mentioned earlier that the tail end bearing should be made up to .032" as per photo but none of the boxes I've stripped had any shims near this in fact this box had no shim's so we are back to tolerance issues in the production line I will not put any shims in and we will see if it is correct later when setting the preload.
Don't forget the ballbearing 6204 is a C3 high temperature mine has side shields Dave weedon suggest this as this is the one that gets oil starvation the shields or not oil tight oil will get it but it may prevent it disappearing so quickly one things for sure the other one doesn't work there always knackered
it's up to you Iam not saying definitely do it like this.
Sorry forgot to mention the pinion and crown wheel distance is 3.080 std but this can change you need to look on the top of the pinion shaft head it will be stamped with a number that matches the crown wheel as they are a set in this case it can be seen as 1080 the distance is also stamped in this case it is STD 3.080 later boxes were stamped with a 0 for STD then a + or,- .002" to indicate +or- STD size
best regards Gary
disaster report... I drove the now - fully - assembled Centaur backwards out of the garage, and then forwards- but then the box jammed after a few dozen metres.
I think two gears are set at the same time or worse, I do not know yet. We could only push it, and that meant it turned the engine over whilst we were pushing the car. When I start the engine and let the clutch engage the engine dies.
Currently, my other british car blocks my lift, so I cannot take the box out in the near future. Maybe I can get this other car to start so I can drive that in and out of the shed / we‘ll see. Then the lift becomes available.
I think all I can do now is to take it out, open it step by step, and document what I find inside. All I remember what might be critical is that I could tilt the 3rd/4th gear a bit, and the manual said when they can be tilt they‘re toast and used beyond. I just thought that it was just a very small amount so I decided to re- use them. Or the damned spring ring came out again ? Sadly I am short on cash so I cannot simply buy an overhauled item now. Maybe later this year. But freight costs... ouch.
Ok news- I took the box out, and opened it. I found nothing specific - could not see why it might have jammed. Something must be wrong with the selector mechanism.
What I noticed is that I can push each of the gear shafts backwards until the gear jumps in, and then further, and then it jams the box. No turning of the input shaft in
the bellhousing anymore. Is that a normal behavior- or is something wrong ? Maybe the selector rod is wrong, because it is its cutout which stops it on its way backwards?
Other then that, I slightly chamfered the edge near the spring cone to easen backward gear selection, but would that change things ? It was recommended on facebook.
Where else would you look if you were in my case ? I plan to compare things against my second box next...to maybe get an idea what I am looking for.
It seems you may have two gears engaged possible the grub screw on the selector fork has come loose and allowing the shaft to move freely
strip it down but try not to move the forks so you can see what's going on when you remove the casting
See facebook if you like - I put up some pics plus a video over there. It was the frontmost brass tube. It has a notch for the woodruff key, and it became mangled up - I think I made an assembly fault. Seems important to first fit the brass tube, and then slide the gear on top and do not lift it up again.
The mangled up brass tube made the gear shaft to be loose, lots of play in it, and the rearmost gear just next to the wall then rubs against the wall. I found some alloy swarf in the oil which made me wonder because the oil was renewed 40 meters ago.
My current plan is to use the brass tube from my old series 1 box, which I already took out, and then assemble and see how it goes. I cannot measure or correct the radial play of the pinion bearing, so I have to assume its ok / it worked before / it should work when I re-fit anything back together.
Hi just to let you know this post has not gone flat ? Iam still working on it just been busy with other things I'm afraid. The box is part built now but the 4th gear bush which is new was undersize and highlighted an issue with the bush crush allowance which I'll show later,so had to make a new one. Iam now very happy with the method for making these accurately and without any run out when I've finished I'll put a set on the shelf if anyone needs some .
unfortunately when building and making components I have to workout how things work ,not just fitting the correct shim because it tells you I have to understand why and what it is for and how it effects the other components but I am getting there now .
have s good day stay safe
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