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Hm I‘ll try that. I still have the Gen 3 box I can fit if I fail. How to get to the pinion shaft ?
Carsten
Carsten
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You don't need to take the pinion shaft out but you do have to take the diff out to get to the other side of the input shaft page 26 you will have to remove the clip and slide the muff coupling up the shaft then in screw the input shaft you maybe able to then remove the needle roller inner sleeve but if it's tight which it should be you will need the special tool .
Look on Churchill special tools RG 368 for an explanation how it works Just had a thought if the oilite bearings are loose on the pinion shaft you could lift all the gears together with the input shaft enough to let it come out and put it back the same way , awkward but possible
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I got it out, see facebook. Now, I am fiddling with my homemade tool and the ring, its evil. I made the tool from alloy, maybe I have to make another one from steel, as the alloy is a bit weak and soft...Comment
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And now its back together again, I made it. It was not that hard as I thought before - after I modified the X - tool a bit
for the spring ring it was okay. I wondered that I was indeed able to tilt the outer vs. the inner gear of the synchro hub against each other, but not much, maybe 1/10th mm ? It felt ok to me / and it win‘t do many miles. And if anything inside this box ever fails again, I am now trained...Comment
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Glad you got it back together it's always easier when you can see how it works but you will still have to preload and check backlash on the diff bearings. Then your fit to go ? I fast learning curve but well worth it ?Comment
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Hi Gary,
ok, how to measure backlash ? I do have a complete toolset with a gauge etc., so I think I can attach it to the box (or I lay a brake disc nearby to clamp it on that), with the inspection cover removed (the late gearboxes have a retainer that can be removed via a screwdriver, the earlier ones do not... hard to remove) and then rock the diff crown wheel forth and back. Then it is obvious I have to make a tool to be able to turn the crown nuts in the flanges. New seals are already mounted (from an earlier repair epsiode).
The point I did not really get yet is how to set the other crown nut. I understand some kind of preload has to be applied to both sides, and that is has to be symmetrical - how is this achieved ?
CarstenComment
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Before I explain read the manual and try to get in your head what it's saying ,when I first read it I didn't understand but after reading a few times it starts to make sense especially the first bit when the nuts are not tight to push the bearing cage's to the outside of the casting
post back tomorrow
Best regards GaryComment
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Ok it is P26 and P27.
I believe I can jump all the preliminary part, because this box came from a car / Hypoid was not apart. Hence I think that both sides are reasonably set, it may just be wear that occured which I would compensate by adjusting.
So, I think I will measure backlash first (hopefully later today), then I would screw the cage side in by, say, 15 degrees, and screw the gear side out by the same 15 degs. That sounds achieveable to me.
Or would you loosen them both and start from scratch ?
CarstenComment
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My mistake I thought the casting was removed and the diff taken out to get to the muff couplingComment
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I split the case, and the diff part / cage stayed completely in the rear alloy cage including the bellhousing. So, I think the measures would not have changed. I cleaned the countergroves in the front alloy case part and used Dirko red HT silicon goo to seal it.
CarstenComment
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Ok its done, engine + box are back in the car. I finally made a terrible fault - I drilled the wrong blob on the front cover. But I cut a thread in it, and fitted a very short very thick bolt with Loctite so thats it (and I made sure it has 3 mm clearance against the reverse gear stud). Silly fault, really. Hypo backlash was 0.12 at 11 degs Celsius so I decided its fine and fitted it.
Oh and I almost forgot the clutch arm. I had the box against the engine in the car, needed a tool, and saw the arm on the bench. Tight one, possibly this was not my best evening...
I‘ll now fit the radiator I got from Malc, repair the dreaded steering shaft issue and if weather allows it, do a test drive in a few days.
CarstenComment
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Sound good Carsten. loking forward to seeing some pics of the car taking to the road
/ JohnComment
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Thanks for sharing this Gary !Comment
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Hi got down the workshop today and started to make RG 363 differential small and large bearing replacer and pinion head bearing seat.
when I first saw this I didn't realize what it did and you don't really need it you could use a spacer but I could make it so why not.
It's purpose is to rest the inner bearing seat ready for pressing on the pinion shaft or the diff as they are the same size.The opposite side is just the same only slightly smaller in diameter the aim is to do it without damaging the bearing cage.
Very simple tool, handy but not really necessary.
Best regards GaryComment
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