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You can see all 3rods hereComment
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Hi sorry forgot to mention the bearings the rear ballbearing is the same 6204C3 they didn't change get one with side shields as it gets starved of oil the front one is bh1612 needle roller you need a special tool to replace that one but it will be ok it's the rear that goes you can get it from any local bearing supplies near you and the seals just go and ask. Get the seals in double lip as per photo
best regards Gary
seals or 1 1/4 bore 1 7/8 od 3/8 wide
Strangely the seals are marked metric now
31.75/47.62/9.52Comment
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Hi Gary,
Malc just sent me the parts today, and I went in the frosty shed and removed the 6204. You all were right, it is a Great Britain stamped (!) 6204 on top, open type, running rough.
The bent shaft is the selector shaft, someone ages before me dropped that box. Malc included one so I will have all the stuff in a few days.
Regarding adjustments: My plan:
- put the innards together, put the 6204 in the case (close fit I had to heat the case to hammer the old one out, maybe have to heat in oven to re-fit the new one, will see how tight that is).
- then I thought I have to measure how much force is needed to rotate it- I thought I would put a thin rope around the toothwheel, and hang a small bowl on it, pour water inside until it starts to turn ? And I then have to tighten the nut until a specific value is reached- and then peen the nut on the shaft ? Same with the lower shaft with the big toothweel ? That nut was very loose when I took it apart, I simply used my fingers to take it of.
- after that, reassemble the reverse gear setup and close the box...
?
CarstenComment
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Hi Carsten
Glad you have all the bits now .heat the casting in the oven 100degs for 20 mins put bearing in freezer ,fit bearing refit circlip make sure the casting faces or clean use a instant gasket like blue hylomar on the casting faces or it will leak oil.
You should not need to set any preload as you have not changed the taper roller bearing , clean the nuts and use loctite 270 or they will come loose as you noticed when you stripped it down .
Let me know when you ready to set the preload and backlash do not fit the new seals in the cage nuts until finish Be very careful when fitting reverse leavers back in as you can drop the shaft in the boxs if you don't locate it correctly then you will have to take it apart again
Regards GaryComment
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Hi Gary,
hm I have to understand...
Is preload only set on the lower shaft ? Because it is a roller bearing ? There is a sharp edged space behind it, thats true, I have seen those on Jaguar IRS, to set preload on the wheel bearings.
The identical nut on the upper shaft is just tightened down and NOT adjusted in any way ? Which torque setting does it need ?
And why does the nut on the lower shaft gets loose (as I found it)- I mean it was secured using the metal lip on the nut which was hammered inside the groove- I believe it was fastened there in the factory, then everything became a bit worn, so the nut kept its place but was essentially loose because it kinda „lost ground“ to lean on behind it ?
many thanks !
CarstenComment
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Hi I think the nut come loose when you get vibration as the rear ball bearing degrades.
There is no preload on the input shaft.
The preload is on the pinion shaft and is set by the thickness of the selective preload washer and will have been set at the factory if the bearing looks in good condition I would not change it as you won't have any other selective washers
The preload should be 1.8/2.7kg. 4 -6lbs for used bearing .
You could use one of those suitcase scale think ever house has one about somewhere.
If it is low fit next thinner washer. get from malc Nut tighten to 45lbs use loctite 270 Washer sizes are in the manual ,do you have a proper workshop manual?
regards Gary
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Hi Gary,
yes we have a suitcase scale but it won‘t show that low. I‘ll try to make something up. And I have a blue soft cover factory manual.
In my words, I have to loosen the input shaft nut, then as per page 11 tigthen the pinion shaft nut in 3 stages and measure.
If it is all fine I end up with around 62 mkg on the nut, and around 1.8-2.7 kilos on the suitcase scale. If not I need a thinner washer from Malc first, then try again.
Or remove 2/100 mm from my washer and try again (not really an option).
The input shaft also gets 62 mkg after that when tigthening down, no adjustments there, just tigthen in stages + thats it.
I never touched the differential output shaft crown nuts on this gearbox, so differential play / backlash should be fine. I will measure it after I finished the front end.
Problem is they just announced total lockdown, but I can still go in my shed and work on my own, or receive mail from england, just the Home De(s)pots will be closed.
Carsten
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Yes think you got it what country are you from ?
best regards GaryComment
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Hi,
I am in northern germany...
CarstenComment
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Hi Gary,
I assembled the box today, and I think I found something which might be a serious fault ?
After putting it together, I needed 15 Nm to turn the pinion shaft (nut fastened to 62 Nm as per book). So I think I need a thicker spacer (mine is 4.64 mm).
But I also could not engage any gear on the LH shaft (LH as seen from a driving position). So I took it apart again, and found that 2 of the three small silver „snappers“ under the sliding gear next to the baulk ring have come out a bit- I pushed them carefully back down with a screwdriver and then the sliding gear could be moved again, but they kept coming out again when I tried to slide the gear forth and back.
Then I found a strange spring wire ring around the pinion shaft on top and next to the baulk ring- and I think it belongs in the groove behind the 3rd baulk ring (see picture, I put it in there, it was not there before). If it is there, the baulk ring is kept nearer to the main ring for this gear, and the three „snappers“ cannot jump out. Maybe its a fix ?
Problem is, the wire ring seems to be too long to stay in the groove, it overlaps by 1cm.
Have you had this before, and what is a proper cure ? Cut 1.3 cm off and re- fit after re-shaping it so it bends itself stronger inwards ? Or re- shape, leave as long as it is, and re-fit ?
I did not try to re- assemble it yet / maybe the spacer issue (I would have expected to need a thinner spacer due to wear, but not a thicker one, maybe the wire „steals“ play on the pinion shaft ?) is gone, then ?
Schöne Grüße,
CarstenComment
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... Gary, is this the spring ring you describe in this thread in post #10 on page 1 ? If so, it looks very similar. So its re- shape so that it is a narrower and re-fit ? Problem is of course it opens up itself s bit when guiding it over the shaft...Comment
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O dear, the Spring is out of the centre of the synchro hub it's come out due to the hub being pushed to far across and Iam afraid you will have to strip the synchro hub off to fix it . You will also have to make the toolto
put the spring back in
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This looks too complicated for me.... first, how do I get the pinion shaft assembly out ? It is blocked by the input shaft ? Cannot slide it backwards enough...
CarstenComment
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You have to take the input shaft out , your correct it's now getting complicated it's a complete strip down
don't know what to suggest at the moment
Best regards GaryComment
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