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Good progress Gary, Iif I remeber I was once told getting the bearings out or off a particlular shaft was half the battle, great you not hit any snags yet
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/ John -
The only bearing I've had trouble with is the larger diff bearings the smaller one has 2 cut outs cast into the cage that was straightforward with a 2 legged puller
But the larger one the inner casing has a flange with only about a 3 mm undercut I couldn't get the puller on even when I ground it down a bit
in the end I got a slitting wheel and ground it across to weaken it and put a little bit of heat into it without going into the cage which then allowed me to give a quick hit with a chisel and it moved up the shaft a bit .job done
Best regards GaryComment
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Just ordered the bearings full set and something strange came to light on the imp website the the input shaft needle roller bearing is quoted as JH1612
The the bearing I pulled out of the box is BH 1612 which is the original torrington bearing I got a quote for both from my local stockist where I always go, he mentioned did I know they are not the same ? I didn't.
JH 1612 was a fully caged bearing and BH 1612 was a fully uncaged bearing
The caged bearing will run faster but with less load and and the uncaged bearing original although running slower will take more load as it retains a full complement of needle rollers surprisingly the club charges £8 maybe it's old stock and all they could get at the time the original torrington costs £2.50
The rest of the bearings are either torrington NTN or SKF all at exceptionally good prices £78.60 all in
Best regards GaryComment
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Gary, about £80 sounds right, I am sure that was the parts on Dave bill for my last one, I did not see the point in pulling one to bits and not chnaging out all the bearings.
For internals that rely on splash lubrication rather than a pump, I would have thought an open cage bearing would have been the norm ?/ JohnComment
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Dave said it's the tail end which struggles with oil starvation that's why the 6204 bearing always goes ,the one on this box had about 1/2mm end float
best regards GaryComment
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Ordered the other tools needed to do the box bearing and made this simple support that Dave suggested to stand the box on when assembling
best regards GaryComment
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Progress is progress Gary, so you tracked down everything you need now ?
Might be a nice sideline as there are loads of transaxles around, just no-one knows what like they are.
There are 6 lying in my garage at least plus jims, I cant even remember why they are there except the one fro Doris as thats serial 6051 and original to the car. Most if i remember are bust seals.
Once the tool set is together migyht be worth trying a few more
Shame there is no real way to bench test them./ JohnComment
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Don't get rid of them there are spares inside that you can't get today .
when I've done this one you can send one down and I'll rebuild it then you can test it out foc
only fare you've given me plenty of help
Best regards Gary
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Gary, that was not a hint
but the offer is greatly appreciated and will keep it in mind for sure !
The one in my chammy was rebuilt by Dave as was the one in the gren Mk 1
Doris however came almost completely original but she needs some serious love fabrication wise, not too much work though really as I have a fullf actory front and wings for her as well as two full factory back wings left. OK the back wings are coupe ones but lot easier makeing that part fit than the rest
It would be good to refit the original MK 1 box that came with the car, I think they are actually different. One mod I was going to do on it was to fit the "breather" as a one way valve to let the hot air out and seal to keep the pressure inside negative seems like a good idea to me.
I was told that internally they ae a little different
Will give you a shout nearer the time, fortuantely I guess the spares for MK1 should be easy to find as no-one really wants to rebuild the early boxes.
Tool wise, not 100% sure but I think there are a couple extra tools neded for the diff ?/ JohnComment
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I believe the 4 diff gears are into changeable as the cage it self is the sameComment
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Finally stripped down the other box ,this was what I thought was the good one .
There was some good oil in but once I got it open it was full of sticky black gunge nothing would move it was all in the syncho hub ,the muff coupling would not slide back to reveal the locking ring one side managed to get the locking ring off about an hour I had to use mole grips and a mallet to slide it up the shaft all the bronze bearings on the pinion shaft we're stuck solid it's a good job I didn't put in the carComment
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The bulk ring are too worn to put back in
So the plan is to use this casting as it's better quality and thicker in some places and use the parts from the other one .
Just waiting on the tools I've ordered to be remade so I can fit the taper bearings
All cleaned now and in separate boxesComment
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Gary, great work. Yes unfortunately only way to tell if the box is good is to take it on road, even then the black gunge always seems to live in there.
Pat will be well happy seeing it that organised, I tend to be a little less sorted
PMCG
/ JohnComment
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We'll see what parts are left over ???Comment
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Gary we will see
/ JohnComment
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