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Transaxale tools and rebuild

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  • Also check the splines and good fit on the muff coupling Click image for larger version

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    • Click image for larger version

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ID:	14791 Fit a new spring clip to the input shaft be careful not to strain it when pushing over the splines .
      always fit a new one they are available from the club ,10p I think it's not worth the risk of putting an old one back then slide the muff coupling on Click image for larger version

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      • ​ Screw the stud in one end of the shaft and screw the shaft together it's best to lock the gears ,when you feel it's touching back it off one spline and slide the coupling over the two shafts and fit the spring clip Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20210510_133855071~2.jpg Views:	0 Size:	279.0 KB ID:	14793 Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20210510_134329186.jpg Views:	0 Size:	3.21 MB ID:	14794

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        • Release the gears make sure all faces are flat and clean put a sealant on the faces fit the diff and hand tighten the nuts as we did in the dry build ,wind the cage side in to push out the screwed sleeves in there groves when you feel resistance like before tighten all the nuts Click image for larger version

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          • It's beginning to look like a transaxale

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            • Long journey Gary but worth it for sure
              / John

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              • I think it needed documenting , I could not find anything online and with Dave semi retired and the unfortunate events regarding Dennis there's only Malcolm and with all due respect he's not getting any younger ,Mike builds for his rally customers but always seems busy and may not have the time .
                Maynard's of course and some of the younger members do with the BMW engines I don't want to go into it commercial but will help anyone and if it puts a bit in the imp fund that's fine
                Best regards Gary

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                • Gary your likely correct as the rebuild needing the tools probably beyond the ability of most

                  Doument it like this is great.

                  I think Andy and Mike still do their own so there is two at least still under 60

                  The BMW change, that encompasses the latter parts and up till a few months ago they all looked easy enough until you seen the offset on Doms one which needed line bored. Was not a problem on Jims one.

                  - John




                  / John

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                  • Yes I saw that on Dom's correct way to do it as they were all matched pairs but sure some will be close enough for sealant to take up but if slack you can't clamp the screwed sleeves

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                    • When folks are reading just in case they mised the comments on shims that the casings should not be mixed and matched between transaxles.

                      I have seen many a "good gearbox" kept as a spare but the bellhousing cracked while folks store them in the usual careful fashion thinking its just an easy swap.

                      I might ask Dom to re-use a few of his pictures as it does higghlight the issue for the BMW crowd as well.

                      - John
                      / John

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                      • I've also seen sections for sale on eBay

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                        • Ok so the nuts are tight you can now find true nip ,in other words the position when the two bearing cones are in line and just touching without any preload
                          please excuse me but does everyone know what gear side and cage side mean
                          I'm hoping someone will be reading this with no knowledge at all
                          The gear side is the side that the crown wheel on the diff runs at and the cage side is the side that has the 4 little gears running in. Gear side on the left ​​​​
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                          • Click image for larger version

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ID:	14892 Wind in the gear side till you feel the backlash is just a little bit if you meet resistance wind the cage side out a little when you think you're somewhere near, look on the gear side and line up one of the 3 cut outs check you still have a bit of backlash

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                            • Now wind in the cage side till you feel resistance and stop .
                              fit the drive shafts and turn the diff about 6times
                              This is to centralise the bearings .
                              Now see if you can wind in a bit more don't force it if it moves a little put the shafts back in and turn again
                              If you're not sure you can wind out and start again you'll soon get a feel of where it just nips on the cones this is called true nip
                              Any adjustments turn the diff to centralise the bearings


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                              • next set up a dti on the crown wheel check the backlash Click image for larger version

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