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What do you do when waiting for stuff to dry and parts to be delivered ?
Get creative
a.k.a getting up to no good 
and i am not the only one ! tawit-ta-woo-times-two.
Not being a fan of the standard reverse switch idea I mocked up a solution that I can polish off later. It is a similar idea to the after market one as mentioned on Facebook by Peter Nunney but I pushed it along the shaft a bit and mixed it up a little.
Gary Whitaker one option to think about.
I uses a microswitch but if the bracket is made accordingly you can use a roller switch (seen in some of the images) or even a push switch.
As long as it cannot be actuated in 2nd/4th no big deal and i must say the rotational difference in 3/4 1/2 and gate for reverse is huge ! as is the travel on the gear change shaft moving from say 1-N-2
So only real adjustment I did was use number plate tape to position the micro switch while still using the lever as a spring.
The roller end microswitch would do this and I did not opt for this option as I only have two, so source a replacement later would be difficult.
I am going to investigate better switch options, might even put a hall sensor in (no not really, wiring is done and I only have one wire !
First the "flag" no big deal here, the selector shaft is about 26mm diameter so hose clip attachemnt seemed fine.
So a T piece was cut from aluminium (Sorry Dave Lane no stainless ! ) with the long section folded at 90 degrees to the shaft travel.
The top T section shaped to follow the curve of the gear change shaft, That will be attached with number plate tape and then the hose clip tightened up.
Flag made and attachment will be the final method.
The flag was adjusted so when the gate is pushed to the left past the detent for reverse, its position is just on the passemger side of the tunnel so access is easy for adjustment.
Microswitch then folded into a U shape with one side on the switch and the other side primed for contact with the flag when the lever is pulled back.
Adjustment was done by moving the switch initially on the tape and final position located then bend the U lever
With a very rough adjustment and switch still on double sided tape I gave it a quick test, so far very positive, no flicker and positive change and loads of travel from left gate from mid to back.
So far very pleased and will make a small mounting plate with some tapped holes for the switch onto a 4mm plate bonded to the top of the tunnel rather than glue, you could if course also just add a small spacer (makes for better adjustment to flag) and just attach with two self tap screws but I prefer the 4mm plate idea as I can change the switch anytime.
I did think about using the belly plate bolts but they are too far away and I would need to space the rest
The switch I picked is standard both in size, lever and of course pitch of holes to mount.
Here it is working. into reverse then back to 1-2 which is the closest gat activity and no false actuation. Working onmmy own i could not see how clear it was, but it will clear by quite a bit.
Get creative
a.k.a getting up to no good and i am not the only one ! tawit-ta-woo-times-two. Not being a fan of the standard reverse switch idea I mocked up a solution that I can polish off later. It is a similar idea to the after market one as mentioned on Facebook by Peter Nunney but I pushed it along the shaft a bit and mixed it up a little.
Gary Whitaker one option to think about.
I uses a microswitch but if the bracket is made accordingly you can use a roller switch (seen in some of the images) or even a push switch.
As long as it cannot be actuated in 2nd/4th no big deal and i must say the rotational difference in 3/4 1/2 and gate for reverse is huge ! as is the travel on the gear change shaft moving from say 1-N-2
So only real adjustment I did was use number plate tape to position the micro switch while still using the lever as a spring.
The roller end microswitch would do this and I did not opt for this option as I only have two, so source a replacement later would be difficult.
I am going to investigate better switch options, might even put a hall sensor in (no not really, wiring is done and I only have one wire !
First the "flag" no big deal here, the selector shaft is about 26mm diameter so hose clip attachemnt seemed fine.
So a T piece was cut from aluminium (Sorry Dave Lane no stainless ! ) with the long section folded at 90 degrees to the shaft travel.
The top T section shaped to follow the curve of the gear change shaft, That will be attached with number plate tape and then the hose clip tightened up.
Flag made and attachment will be the final method.
The flag was adjusted so when the gate is pushed to the left past the detent for reverse, its position is just on the passemger side of the tunnel so access is easy for adjustment.
Microswitch then folded into a U shape with one side on the switch and the other side primed for contact with the flag when the lever is pulled back.
Adjustment was done by moving the switch initially on the tape and final position located then bend the U lever
With a very rough adjustment and switch still on double sided tape I gave it a quick test, so far very positive, no flicker and positive change and loads of travel from left gate from mid to back.
So far very pleased and will make a small mounting plate with some tapped holes for the switch onto a 4mm plate bonded to the top of the tunnel rather than glue, you could if course also just add a small spacer (makes for better adjustment to flag) and just attach with two self tap screws but I prefer the 4mm plate idea as I can change the switch anytime.
I did think about using the belly plate bolts but they are too far away and I would need to space the rest
The switch I picked is standard both in size, lever and of course pitch of holes to mount.
Here it is working. into reverse then back to 1-2 which is the closest gat activity and no false actuation. Working onmmy own i could not see how clear it was, but it will clear by quite a bit.
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