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This is a pretty well known failure point with these style fuel pumps on a lot of other vehicles as well as Imps. There seemed to be little or no quality assurance done on these assemblies at factory or its simply old age.
In any case it is a serious risk and while many recommend safety tie the two ends so they cannot come off, the outlet can be pressurised, not by much but 1.5 to 3 PSI is enough if the float chamber shut off valve is closed.
In case you did not notice the small pipe connector in the hose in my hand should be part of the pump, this literally fell off.
The tie wraps that are on the input used to be a safety measure so that the in / out cannot fly out but this was weeping and while its above the exhaust itself, damn dangerous. Luckilly the heat shield normally left off by owners as they are a pain to remove and refit was on mine.
This is what it should look like with both ends attached
My own solution
First, two things I hate about the original pump
First is obvious, they are crap and fall to pieces. The tails could be epoxied in, however I went for a more robust solution.
Second the tails for the hoses are smooth and you can pull them off.
So I picked a couple of 1/8 NPT barbed unions and pulled out the two smooth tails, they come out shockingly easy !.
I then drilled / tapped the two apertures on the pump body for 1/8 NPT brass fittings available from any source really, demon tweaks, car builder solutions etc. The ones i used here were from Sytec.
The straight tail was fitted to the inlet as it suits the existing fuel line route. The second was a 90 deg bend same as i use on the fuel tank exits when fitting an electric pump, these are then screw into the pump body using plenty thread sealer ( NOT same as thread lock, sealer ! )
Here is the solution just the valve body, I happened to have refurbed a early lucas solenoid at same time
And here it is fitted to the vehicle. The pump is fitted further to the rear than the carb so you usually get an ugly big loop of fuel line hanging around.
The 90 degree bend takes out a lot of the loop and makes a much better loop to the float chamber on the carb.
Here it is fitted to the car. The 90 deg bend makes a better fuel line route and the barbed hose tails make for a far more secure fitting to the hose.
All good
In any case it is a serious risk and while many recommend safety tie the two ends so they cannot come off, the outlet can be pressurised, not by much but 1.5 to 3 PSI is enough if the float chamber shut off valve is closed.
In case you did not notice the small pipe connector in the hose in my hand should be part of the pump, this literally fell off.
The tie wraps that are on the input used to be a safety measure so that the in / out cannot fly out but this was weeping and while its above the exhaust itself, damn dangerous. Luckilly the heat shield normally left off by owners as they are a pain to remove and refit was on mine.
This is what it should look like with both ends attached
My own solution
First, two things I hate about the original pump
First is obvious, they are crap and fall to pieces. The tails could be epoxied in, however I went for a more robust solution.
Second the tails for the hoses are smooth and you can pull them off.
So I picked a couple of 1/8 NPT barbed unions and pulled out the two smooth tails, they come out shockingly easy !.
I then drilled / tapped the two apertures on the pump body for 1/8 NPT brass fittings available from any source really, demon tweaks, car builder solutions etc. The ones i used here were from Sytec.
The straight tail was fitted to the inlet as it suits the existing fuel line route. The second was a 90 deg bend same as i use on the fuel tank exits when fitting an electric pump, these are then screw into the pump body using plenty thread sealer ( NOT same as thread lock, sealer ! )
Here is the solution just the valve body, I happened to have refurbed a early lucas solenoid at same time
And here it is fitted to the vehicle. The pump is fitted further to the rear than the carb so you usually get an ugly big loop of fuel line hanging around.
The 90 degree bend takes out a lot of the loop and makes a much better loop to the float chamber on the carb.
Here it is fitted to the car. The 90 deg bend makes a better fuel line route and the barbed hose tails make for a far more secure fitting to the hose.
All good