Not a step by step or a how-too but a real view (not from a manual) engine rebuild.

[John A. Ross]

First clean clean clean, every part from top to toe. Assume he head has already been done as those are small enough to look at easilly.





The block is a bit of a lump.


Parts used on this rebuild were

New head bolts
- Spares from another engine.

Oil Filter
- Wix filter from motor factors, equivelent to the Volvo one taht is popular.

Bottom end gasket set
- Payen NOS bottome end set. Unfortunately this had shrunk and did not fit the stud pattern.

Bottom end gasket set
- Remanufactured from Bob Allan at The Imp Club Spares service (membership required to use)

Top end gasket set
- Remanufactured from Bob Allan at The Imp Club Spares service (membership required to use)

Double Lipped Timing Cover Oil Seal
- A tip from Pete Fitzgerald and sourced by Bob Allan at The Imp Club Spares service I used this in preference to the single lip one in the bottom end set.

New Piston Rings
- Standatrd rings from Ben Boult - Corley Conversions

New Main Bearings
- Standatrd rings from Ben Boult - Corley Conversions

New Big End Bearings
- Standatrd rings from Ben Boult - Corley Conversions

Out wash and wash again, full pressure steam blasted

[John A. Ross]

Parts cleaned up, degreased and ready to take stock of

[John A. Ross]

And of course this one needs a light de-glaze using a fine hone tool as it will be receiving new rings as well as a clean up of the crank and cam and other ancilliaries



You might motice shiny head bolt threads, very important this !! as they do rot at the bottom of the thread area as the aluminium corodes and the rust from the steel bolts which are exposed at the bottom.

It takes only ytwo minutes each to chase these holes out and to make sure the head bolt does not give a false torque reading if it jams at the bottom as the nhead bolt is slightly longer, there is crap in the threads or the gasket is a little thinner.

You will also notice between that some studs were missing from the bottom of the block as the stud came out on dis-assembly rather than bolt only, new studs were added, here is what was prepared earlier as they say !!!







Nice shiny journals checked for imperfections and wear duly soaked in oil (and I mean soaked) sat in the main bearing halves, soaked again and the galleries primed a little, remeber and fit the thrust washers !

[John A. Ross]

Bottom end assembled, new bearings on main and big end

[John A. Ross]

Time for the oil pump and other parts, do not forget things like the timining chain AND to keep the timing chain in same place and in position BEFORE inserting the oild pump as there are a couple of gotchas to be had here, one is if the chain is not in position and the pump is fitted there is no clearance to move the chain back into position and you will need to pull the pump a second time !

[John A. Ross]

An now the moment of truth - START TIME.

Remember on start there are many things to consider, mainly the ring bedding in.

Start with care and some lighter oil than normal.

First spin up with plugs out until oil pressure is obtained.

Then check compression one at a time, remember the rings are not yet bedded in !

Then again with plugs in but NO FIRE