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MK1 Singer Chamois

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  • nice find dude
    / John

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    • Pratting about again.
      Stainless engine mount cover thingy ( the brushed stainless bit on the rear panel ) - easier that repainting it

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      • More bling what was this originally Dave, your donor material always has a story
        / John

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        • Originally posted by John A. Ross View Post
          More bling what was this originally Dave, your donor material always has a story
          Set of scales , its the top bit you stand on

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          • Well the Caernarvonshire and Anglesey badge is fitted .
            No holes drilled and two minutes to take it off.
            These badges are very much a 60s thing so that and the fact its Anglesey related means it kind of fits in
            Also altered the top screen tint with a strange " never seen before " shape
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            • Originally posted by Dave Lane View Post

              Set of scales , its the top bit you stand on
              Thats size, thats me out, no chance I can stand on something that size for about 2 decades
              / John

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              • I periodically check voltage readings on both cars to test for voltage drop . Well it looks like im loosing 0.17V at the ignition switch which i think is acceptable given Lucas ignition switches

                At the battery
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                Alternator

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                Up front - permanent supply - strangely i gained 0.01V

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                Ignition switch fed supply - a drop of 0.17V

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                • Dave

                  You are doing alright there. Wire looks in good condition

                  What is the CSA of the cable normally Dave, 6mm CSA ?

                  Quick calc based on 5A current 12.4V at source , 3m cable length loss expected

                  6mm CSA - 0.09V (0.377V @ 20A)
                  4mm CSA - 0.14V (0.565V @ 20A) this is too small so muct be at least 6mm

                  All kind of assumes room temp, that loss increases when the cables are bundled up and warn in the heater channel.

                  But that voltage drop is good, you can always put on the headlights, spots, wipers ... and measure again. but just in engine bay from batt to switch then back again,

                  If you want to save the ignition switch forever Dave drop a relay at back of it instead to keep the high current load off the switchc ontacts themselves, totally just plug in job.


                  All looking good and actually a good check to do every year or so.
                  / John

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                  • Ignition circuit is still fed via original 50 odd year old cable so i might well replace it , il leave it in the loom though just in case
                    Permanent live is 6mm CSA , Ignition is smaller but doubled up as original

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                    • Nout wrong with it Dave based on those measurements, if its no broke, leave it alone
                      / John

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                      • Originally posted by John A. Ross View Post
                        Nout wrong with it Dave based on those measurements, if its no broke, leave it alone
                        It would get rid of 13 odd ft of old wire , run a new live to the ignition switch then run the horn off the front fuse box rather than a live all the way from the rear fuse box to said horns , that was my idea anyway - as you know MK1s have two browns from the rear to the front , ones ignition and one is just the horn

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                        • Dave

                          Yip, I ran two 8.5mm csa from back of car to front and put the "switched" relay at the back. The white wire makes an excellent wire to engage a relay on the existing harness and takes the load away from the ign switch (or just add relay at back) so you can have a live feed and a switched feed direct from battery.

                          The two fuse boxes I put in front supplies switched bits and the other bits that are aon all the time

                          Your right regarding the age, if the poor things were houses the wiring would be condemned !

                          / John

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                          • Well I did go ahead and alter the wiring on the Singer .
                            Ive disconnected the old brown ignition cables ( but left them in the loom )and run a 6mm CSA cable to replace them ( Huber and Suhner Radox 155 - the best you can get ) .
                            Strange wiring on MK1 Singers as one brown went to the ignition switch and one went right up to the horn.
                            Ive rewired the horns supply so its coming off the permanent fuse box in the boot therefor doing away with a cars length of old wire .
                            Re-loomed where ive been - its all working fine

                            As it is now

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                            As it was , you can just see the old twin brown wires top right

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                            Radox 155S specs , So my 6mm will handle 92A - More than enough

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                            • Dave, 92A is electric car areas

                              I knew those new weires were going in

                              How does the drop look now ?
                              / John

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                              • Originally posted by John A. Ross View Post
                                Dave, 92A is electric car areas

                                I knew those new weires were going in

                                How does the drop look now ?
                                Not actually checked stationary but running theres 0.4V difference between permanent and switched so less than 1/2 a Volt , il take that

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