DDG 220 C aka "Millie" - MK 1 Singer Chamois

[John A. Ross]

Same job Dan, Raptor will go brick hard so perhaps even better its just a SOAB to prep and paint over but a much thinner layer

That was it after I had done it, the grey is the areas that were stone chipped.

Going raptor tinted would have saved a few stages for me.

[John A. Ross]

Today the exhaust arived, no idea what it will sound like so thats a punt.

The parts came from EVERY EXHAUST PART

Although came from their Ebay shop

Universal Extra Quiet 4" Stainless Steel Silencer Muffler Box With Extra Baffles

Curved Curl Down Exhaust Tail Pipe Trim Stainless Steel Curldown Tip inch mm

This was to fit onto Franks 4:2:1 manifold.




This is a very tight fit as Frank designed the manifold for an oval with entry left rear exit front right so the line is very very close to the rear panel.

First things first, slice off about 2" from the manifold exit pipe as this will be needed to seat the silencer back a bit.

Second slice off the front of the silencer at the slit point so it is shorter.

Third slice off the end of the tail pipe at the slits so it sits further onto the silencer end you just trimmed.

Then a bracket is needed to fix the front end of the silencer

[John A. Ross]

Dave version, a very tdy install indeed Dave Lane

[John A. Ross]

Plan for heat tray next that is gonna be fun

[Dave Lane]

nice job , mounting brackets good :)

[John A. Ross]

Not stainless though Dave but price was right

[John A. Ross]

And time for more mock up of the heat shield. Glad it came together as this one was last one I had to chop up, other 4 now scrap.





All seems to fit now, but here is why we mock things up.

need to cut in for the bracket



And then trim the tray so it sits on inside lip and move the screw fixing



Not sure I would use clamps on the tail pipe, reckon couple of stainless self tap screws will suit it better with a little sealant

[John A. Ross]

The results of more tin bashing and bending, had to rethink the heat shield attachment so have decided on an alternate mount method to back cross member. Will post tomorrow.

Modifed tray still needs to be checked and strengthened in a few places as I hate the rattle from them.

[John A. Ross]

No budget for alloy wheels or road legal tyres.

These will have to do for now previously gold, green, maroon, white, silver.....

Having them one colour is progress enough for now !

[John A. Ross]

Not a lot of progress today, loads of small stuff done.

Brakes bled and adjusted, just handbrake to do tomorrow.

My super duper wheel set is now on, front of car now back on the ground and rear of car now higher so I can get under it easier.





Heat sheild squared off, stripped, etched, phosphated and now coated black. Second coat tomorrow. Just brush effort.

[John A. Ross]

What do you do when waiting for stuff to dry and parts to be delivered ?

Get creative a.k.a getting up to no good and i am not the only one ! tawit-ta-woo-times-two.

Not being a fan of the standard reverse switch idea I mocked up a solution that I can polish off later.

I uses a microswitch but if the bracket is made accordingly you can use a roller switch (seen in some of the images) or even a push switch.




As long as it cannot be actuated in 2nd/4th no big deal and i must say the rotational difference in 3/4 1/2 and gate for reverse is huge ! as is the travel on the gear change shaft moving from say 1-N-2

So only real adjustment I did was use number plate tape to position the micro switch while still using the lever as a spring.

The roller end microswitch would do this and I did not opt for this option as I only have two, so source a replacement later would be difficult.

I am going to investigate better switch options, might even put a hall sensor in (no not really, wiring is done and I only have one wire !

First the "flag" no big deal here, the selector shaft is about 26mm diameter so hose clip attachemnt seemed fine.

So a T piece was cut from aluminium (Sorry Dave Lane no stainless ! ) with the long section folded at 90 degrees to the shaft travel.

The top T section shaped to follow the curve of the gear change shaft, That will be attached with number plate tape and then the hose clip tightened up.

Flag made and attachment will be the final method.






The flag was adjusted so when the gate is pushed to the left past the detent for reverse, its position is just on the passemger side of the tunnel so access is easy for adjustment.

Microswitch then folded into a U shape with one side on the switch and the other side primed for contact with the flag when the lever is pulled back.



Adjustment was done by moving the switch initially on the tape and final position located then bend the U lever

With a very rough adjustment and switch still on double sided tape I gave it a quick test, so far very positive, no flicker and positive change and loads of travel from left gate from mid to back.



So far very pleased and will make a small mounting plate with some tapped holes for the switch onto a 4mm plate bonded to the top of the tunnel rather than glue, you could if course also just add a small spacer (makes for better adjustment to flag) and just attach with two self tap screws but I prefer the 4mm plate idea as I can change the switch anytime.

I did think about using the belly plate bolts but they are too far away and I would need to space the rest



The switch I picked is standard both in size, lever and of course pitch of holes to mount.

Here it is working. into reverse then back to 1-2 which is the closest gat activity and no false actuation. Working onmmy own i could not see how clear it was, but it will clear by quite a bit.

[High_dan]

I may have to copy this John, I’ve already fitted a micro switch but inside the car.

[John A. Ross]

Final parts.

4mm plate cut and two rivnuts added for 2 x M3 x 20 screws.



Then screwed switch down (little loctite) and added some wires





Then 2 strips of number plate tape added and a bead of acrylic adhesive added on each "ear" to bond to the sides of the tunnel.

No way to access anything above the shaft so bonding best way.

Then pressed into place, te number plate tape would likely have been enough but just in case it will give the adhesive plenty time to cure.

Shown in "engaged" position (reverse) so plenty adjustment left. If i managed to get the switch in wrong place it can be unscrewed and modified or i can move the flag by loosen the hose clip.



So thats it wired in and operating the relay great

[Gary Whitaker]

That's very neat John thanks for sharing
regards Gary ?

[John A. Ross]

Not to much done today again,

But lined the bonnet area under tank, added some rubber buffers to the tank points (they are never level anyway) got fuel filters in post so thats all that in.

Popped in side covers for a look, give a bit of a boost to the mojo.