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Duly pressure washed (ney blasted with 150 deg and high pressure) made short work of those quality "rootes" paint jobs which also pretty much removed all the crust, seems I was lucky and it was dead fuel and "things"
Dropped some caustic solution in anyway and that cleare up the rest of the crap.
Cleaned off, washed out isnide with some zing phospate solution for now, same for outside, so its left to dry now and will run some sealer round the tank tomorrow then coat it up in some primer.
The sealer and epoxy usually takes 5-7 days to fully go off which will let me get on with other things
And after another day of clean, prep, etch, clean, prep.... the tank now has 2 good coats of epoxy on it. When hard I already know that stuff resists all nasties as it is same stuf I use on suspension and I have spilled plenty brake/fuel/ on it and wiped it clean with thinners
it will get a coat in black from my second favourite induustrial coating
If you look down you will see an ornage cement mixer, same industrial grade paint we used to use on all the plant at place I used to work long ago (aka powertech/hewden orange !) as when coated, we could even caustic wash the cement off the mixers and paint still remained
I painted the rollover jig in the images for DDG220C and JDL889F in same system in yellow and it never peeled, chipped and on scratches that was it.
Well not a lot more done, most of all this was done yesterday but too much time at the desk been causing my left shoulder to give me crap again so been doing loads of zzzz as cant sleep well.
Mounting plates for the relays made, riv nuts added, one will sit raised off the inner wheel tun around (well some of it under) the wiper motor so that will handle the wiper motor, lights and spots and the other heater fan, horns, ignition..... inidcators and hazards will be on other side at wheel tub.
I have been staying true to my plan and preparing the wiring drawings in advance and trying to stick to them.
One challenge I was thinking of a complex solution for was how to have the front and heated rear screen exclusive so one cant be on when the other is, was thinking diodes, other realays and as I was clearing out stuff today i found a centre off paddle switch so I can have it ON-OFF-ON so rear-off-front, 2 lamps and deed done. Timer will be added then later
And tank is now black at least at front, sides and top.
Was next to no paint left, was lucky if there was 100ml in pot and that was after adding thinners and sleucing around !
So bottom of tank is still epoxy, I could have left the lot like that but I simply could not live with a red tank
And all those boxes in background which was my outside imp parts store as no room at inn inside is now cleared and off to be parked up along with the ML which will now get SORNED
So thats most of the heavy items, I stuck in 3 engines, gearboxes, engine stand, trolley and a bunch of other stuiff I have not looked at since I brought them home. I know where they are if needed
next project side ramp in van
After some fence work which i need to fix so I can park the imp there !
At the time i was looking for fuel senders i found that out the 7 or so I had lying around all had issues on the winding so would be flaky at one point, the wiper / rheostat is worn in nearly all of these and NOS ones are getting expensive.
New ones are still available, Bob Allan at Club Spares can supply however they feel
At least its new, just needs tested so will do that on Boris as I can use the electric pump to empty/fill the tank to set the float
Imp gauges were never that accurate anyway but would like it to be there or there abouts !
And of course one of Bobs filters heading for the base of the tank (Boris has already had one) Petowner , after i find the safe place I put the magnet !
Pull ot 3/16 and rerun in 1/4 all way and see what shakes,
Well thast that plan scuppered
That expensive reducer i bought had took legs and walked along with the connector bodyt for the inertia safety switch next person that says happy today .... can go fudge off
Bob as you have to run new lines instead of that silly reducer and length of 3/16 line attached to the 1/4" for the clutch, run it all in one length.
It fits and bends fine all in 1/4" but only really if done with suspension off and no harder to run than 3/16. Wish i had done this from day one, was a colpete sod of a job afterwards..
I had to join this up to get rid of the reduder.
And I had to pull and redo the other end as my usual heavy handed approach with the spanner had damaged the flare and it is near impossible to get a new end made off on the car with engine in.
So new end coupled up, bled and tested
And not forgetting the requried "special" tool at the cylinder, compressed as far in as it will go to minimise air.
Comparison of bores on standard rubber hose and the braided hose from Robin Human
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