DDG 220 C aka "Millie" - MK 1 Singer Chamois

[John A. Ross]

And a few more things done.

After a spring clean on the only good distributor I seem to have to hand, time to pop off the blanking plug and fit the distributor in place, to be timed later

[John A. Ross]

And button up the final bits on the cooling, I should have done thise before fitting the servo !

[John A. Ross]

And finally, theat is the

Battery terminal +VE done
Main and 4 sub fuses done
Main relay done (for switched supply)
Solenoid and link done





Some clean up and that will be that.

I was going for the "clean engine bay" approach but too much work involved.

Solenoid is relocated to the left and up a bit to clear some space for possible air filter solutions on the 28/36

But one more bit done.

The rear control relays and LT relays will be mounted inside.

reminds me, still need to tighten up the starter bolts !

[John A. Ross]

Ended up with a lot more to do today than i planned

Looks like very little but running wiring, tidy it up, check the drawings, test it and keep it rasonably tiday takes way too long.

Decided wiring was going through inside car after all as I will need to run the vac line for the servo across the back outside and just one straight run will look so much better.

So wiring in for ignition light, tachos, oil pressure sender, oil preasure switch, temp sender and tacho and indicators/sside/stop on LHS,

Brake switch wiring and reverse light wiring also now in (back broken fiddling under the car, I want a ramp again )

Should all be done and buttoned up by tomorrow.

[John A. Ross]

And more wiring and wiring and heat shrink and crimping and cutting adn ripping it out and doing it again as I thought of a better way

So gave up for a bit and redid the plan and this time stuck to it.



So thats a pile of stuff "off da list"




So coil, alternator (lost damn clip off back)

Temp sender, oil pressure sender, oil switch, dizzy....


And MOST importantly of all the aux power socket, always wanted one of these in back !



So starter cable, solenoid engage, primary relay engage and right hand lamps and thats engine bay done

I was going to add a engine bay light but can always do that later

[John A. Ross]

OK, I am a slave to some letent OCD....

The wiring is going according to plan and I am resisting my urge to "ing it" and end up with the only drawing of what was done in my head ! So been spending time changing up the drawings.

In total I have removed (sorry Dave Lane ) 3 fuses and 2 relays combined another two as it simply makes more sense in the real world than in paper.

The primary relay would not work where I had it, it is the ideal spot but once the grommet and cables are in, it refuses to seat properly.




Sides of screw hammered flat to "bite" in the back of the aluminium plate so it does not spin



So to use up the left hand side of the old RB340 mount points I made up a small bracket and re-tasked one of the old battery bump stops to the back. Fits nicely !

Then the fuses and relays for the rear, on their mount plate, I will attach this from the engine bay into the back parcel shelf with some spacers same as i did with Jim McGurk BMW eletronics

So time to make some mounts. Must say I like Dewalt tools but battery life on their grinder is utter crap.

Everything is tapped or rivnuts

Ready to install tomorrrow after a little label or two !









OH and as plans change the aux power socket is now dual purpose after fusing the +VE and -VE lines as it is an isolated socket, the dual purpose is so i can plug in the battery float charger while in storage. Something that came up when trying to figure out how to get the CTEK charger easy coupled to the E55 battery PMCG

[Colimp66]

Never seen the bolt trick before John, good idea hammering the edges flat to bite into the aluminium.
Might use that some point in the future..... If I remember it
Good bit of progress going on now though. Must be that insulated door making the difference

Cheers
Col

[John A. Ross]

Colin

Thats an old trick that one, helps when you cant do a reach around or get a pem in.

Insulated door, was just saying to jim Fraser not that long ago only feekin country where we have the sun come out and it gets colder

Cant work wirth door closed, put the car on axle stands and cant move it until I finish the brakes and the gear linkasge and this time of doing nout now I am getting so fat I cant get between the car and the door any more !

Finished up the rear control hub and the primary relay bracket, quite happy how they fit in althouigh not so happy how the wire routing went, ripped out the drivers side wiring as the lengths were odd.

Still not happy but after re-do it 4 times it was a case of bugger this no more




Going to make a hinged cover in same walnut as the trimmings and dash to hide that.

Tomorrow will get the engine bay stuff nailed and that willbe done.

Then back to bleed the brakes and fix the leak/weep on the rear clutch union.

In between we had panic stations as the beast got loose so had to go climb roofs to rescue her.

[John A. Ross]

A few people asked for the drawing, this is only the rear wiring but can be wired up to almost any dash.

[John A. Ross]

So onwards

Front wiring at front panel done, all done in one lengths using overlapped heat shrink for couble insulation and all trminatd behind wiper motor

Not a lot to see but threading all those wirs through tubes and keeping them all tidy takes forever !

Will sort out the draings later

One more off "da list"

next up one I have been avoiding !

[John A. Ross]

OK for the next task i had to make a super duper bonnet catch / stay but I doubt it will catch on anytime soon

[John A. Ross]

Cooling time

So time to add in the Y pieces and route the coolant hoses for the heater and aux radiator (well actually an Audi A3 heater matrix)

First of all tidy up the carnage after the wiring work




The MK 1 cars have an extra panel on the inner wheel tubs which makes routing the hoses a bit of a challenge.

You can get the idea here, the biased Y pieces came from Car Builder Solutions and not expensive




In more detail, first step add the Y piece to the 16mm tube





Then fit the downward tube for the aux radiator after trimming the 19mm tubes from the sills

[John A. Ross]

And then it was time to fix them down to the front chassis rails








Well squared away now and clear of the tank.

Resevoir hoses just touching the tank and no more so those need attention tomorrow


Oh and yes there was a oh crap moment, another challenge to fix tomorrow

Tried the spare wheel in and it fouls the rad exit





Always something else to fix !

[John A. Ross]

But progress none the less

And as I tried the tank in i thought it would check it out and not so much bad but dissapointing news.

base bowl is crusty so will geta scrape and caustic wash tomorrow, only the bottom bowl is iffy, must have got some water in it when stored outside

[John A. Ross]

So one thing off "da list" and 3 more things on it to fix !!!!

Next up if fugure out air intake for the 28/36

Tried this but its ugly and I doubt it can let the carb breathe so its out.