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I have one really good body and spindles, the rest are just "OK" and next to no wear on the plunger.
Jst case now of building back up and after a conversation with mike I have the jetting more or less in a good enough place to be there or thre abouts.
Will be cranking it up later
I went and reclaimed the ultrasonic clean tank from other house so will get the bits cleaned up and put it back together, good wind behind me and should have fire within next few days
No carb was fitted, we just fired some EZ down (little too much first time hence fire comments ) and added spark.
Just trying to figure out this electric gauge conumdrum. Starting to think the sender is not for that gauge.
Seemingly smiths had three types
2 wires plus body - body isolated, one wire GND other wire to sender
2 wires plus body - body common GND, one wire Oil Switch other wire Sender resistance goes UP 0-100PSI
2 wires plus body - body common GND, one wire Oil Switch other wire Sender resistance goes DOWN 0-100PSI
Checked the gauge, 50 ohms lands gauge in middle or there abouts, so gauge not bust and wiring for single ended sender seems fine.
Carb fitted and the engine tickled up, had to fit Durite sender and gauge temproary.
Oil pressure fine, oil leak at back of engine which i am less than happy with but can live with that for now.
Fluid leak at front of pump spindle, hopefully it clears when bedded in. Just drips.
Fluid leak at rear head from the brass T junction that sits on the sport head, sort of banjo affair. Again just a drip, hose clamps tightened up but my fear is that it is the seals or the banjo itself..
My heated manifold "thing" dry as a bone
Running rough, carb or manifold has an air leak although i just realised as I type the servo is NOT connected up and the big gaping hole for the non return valve may be the cause (give myself a homer slap for that newbie error! )
Throttle response is horid, defo need to work on the linkage more.
BUT
All in all, its starts first crank with light blip of throttle, revs well, I can engage clutch and move car easy.
Been a long road.
Here is hoping I can get under and see where the oil leak is coming from and fix it without having to pull the engine again.
I bought the gauge and sender as a pair, unfortunately the "sender" is not actualy a sende altough it looks identical to one. Guess smiths used same enclosure
It was a switch, hence when pressure was detected, gauge just went right to end.
The Durite gauge we used to test was working fine and oil pressure was all good.
What we discovered though is that the durite gauge follows normal approach, resistance increases with pressure.
However the period smiths gauge, is the opposite, it has high resistance at stand still and decreases with pressure, so I cannot use the durite sender even although it is the similar 100R range
And gauges fixed, gave up trying to find an inverted curve sender for the smiths gauge so bought a triple set cheap for now. Actual temp gauge also added. Some work neded on sender
With the multi plugs this was a piece of wish, unplug, on bench, deed done, plug back in
Time to tidy up the bonnet area, the wiring is not ugly but better covered anyway
Will cut a hole for fuse box later (like Daves)
So sheet material ready
Cut to size and a bolster ran along eacg side of the fold line to minim the pressed area of the original, fold looks as ugly as the original now
Final fold polished off by tapping along bench edge which "was" sharp, now not so much so
Sits in initially very well
Too tall at back though as I used some anti slip matt on tank surface.
Rubber mat added, ribbed, running left to right
And instead of using the ugly tangs I added 5 spots of velcro spots, the weight of the rubber mat holds the base down well, coupld of velcro spots to hold the rear up and a snug fit under the edging I added, looks good to go
Thats the second engine 227 (same spec as first 226) in and tested, after a bit of a rocky start it ran great, lovely sound, might still be a bot loud for me.
Its going back into the crate/pallet now and back to storage knowing its a good un and now run in or at least ran warm every day over a weak and had filter and oil changed twice
55-60PSI cold, 50-55 warm at 4k,
So time to get the bits back off.
Last edited by John A. Ross; 9 August 2020, 06:07 PM.
This one had a small leak at the rear bearing to block strengthen plate seam, so will be getting that sealed up (hence flywheel off) also had a problem on the reconditioned laycock clutch plate so NOS ready to go back in.
The support dollies for the transaxle and engine work great, small lever (bit of 3x2) and its a breeze to swap over. Would only be an hour to get back in BUT !!
Thats same problem on two engines with the exhaust manifold blowing a bit and an air leak.
The issue is a bit more eveident now and a quick check with a staright edge confirms it.
The Exhaust manifold flange is as bent as a bannana
Will see if local machine shop can mill it flat for me but I know James was pretty busy last time i was in, seems the new spark erossion mill is always playing up.
I have a second (not polished) manifold, might try that on and see if it is any better.
To be fair the "shine" has started to fade for me on these.
Original water pump is also on way back, surfaces refaced and beeded in, so will get that on for checking as well. At least the one on at moment is great
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