BRU 434B And the Journey Begins - First Engine Removal and more

[John A. Ross]

Fan breather location

[John A. Ross]

Funny enough its a question I seen in several places. EP80/90 GL4 Mineral is what I use. Must be GL-4 mineral, not GL-4 synthetic

[moose549]

What is wrong with GL 4 synthetic John?

[John A. Ross]

Mike, used by plenty I know including Syntrans.

Advice from those rebuilding gearboxes including the last 3 I had done, use mineral.

Never had an issue. From memory various componnent additives, detergents, ZDDPs and so on were mentioned as was failure to lubricate/retain oil on bearings. Although with how much accuracy who knows.

Saying that not impressed by 2 of the 3 last ones I had done.

As i just said to Dan, just re-enforces my own view only way to test a transaxle is put it in a car and actually drive it.

If what is there is working fine, no gear change isue, no whine, not weeping oil all over the shop I would be just wiping its back side, few oil seals, new oil and back in it goes.

[High_dan]

Have turned this thread into a bit of a build thread. So watch this space, as I make mistakes and ask lots of questions and post pictures! Although no questions today just a picture of progress. After ordering lots of parts I decided to clean up the engine bay and get a quote of primer on. Gave it a good de grease, removed all the under seal and crap, rubbed it all down and removed the rust spots, treated the rust areas and got a coat of primer on! Will be repainting it in body colour but am tempted to paint it black for the ease of maintenance in the future and hide the oil!

[High_dan]

If what is there is working fine, no gear change isue, no whine, not weeping oil all over the shop I would be just wiping its back side, few oil seals, new oil and back in it goes.

thanks John, have ordered some new oil seals from club and will order some new oil. Do I just pull the old oil seal out? It’s a bit vague in the workshop manual. Oops maybe one question today!

[John A. Ross]

Ah, need to be careful, the side seals can only go in so far, Dave Lane had dimensions for the hub oil seal tool, gives an idea on how to refit them.

The input shaft seal nedds to come out carefully and like the side seals it can actually be tapped all way back into the gearbox.

I have a bit of tubing i welded some flat plate onto and took out a largish holes, it locates over the input shaft and not only pushes the seal back in even but as it is slightly bigger, it stops at the casing so you know its home and no more needed.

Has Bob updated these yet to double lip ones ? After I got him into the double lip ones for the crank pully seal I think he was looking at changing a few othres including those ones.

Then again it all hit the fan not long after.

You should have epoxy coated the engine bay (or colour tinted some raptor) you could still do Raptor.

If you colour tint Raptor it will be same colour and all you need do is wash it off. Pretty much hard as nails.

RAPTOR TINT KIT

When this gores off it is brick hard and resistant to most things.

MUST have a good key and if thats standard primer you have on the car you dont want to leave it that way too long.

Reckon you will need 2 bottle kits to do the engine bay plus suitable thinners (Syetem 20) just dont use system 20 paint ! as a friend of ours forun out the hard way put anything solvent related near a system 20top coat and it reacts very badly.

You will need "tint" in Glen Almond green and if you use standard base coat it will have a matt finish if you go for top coat go for 2K top coat.



Just watch, Raptor is a 2K isocyanate based coating, damn toxic so get the mask on at all times.


Worth the effort though

[High_dan]

Thanks John, I don’t have a spray gun. Rattle cans only here! I have initially sprayed it with etch primer just to cover the areas I’ve worked on. Robin human is supplying me with some correct colour rattle cans. Was then going to clear coat it with some heat resistant paint I got from Frost’s that they recommend for the engine bay.

https://www.frost.co.uk/eastwood-clear-coat-satin-for-painted-surfaces-aerosol/?gclid=Cj0KCQjws_r0BRCwARIsAMxfDRj80JPQ0FTTmC904CMnjdWz0Fvn0vyeDKRlxtDaPsdJX709L1aYaDwaAn-3EALw_wcB

[John A. Ross]

Oh, rattle cans bad mojo. Cheap HVLP gun and small compressor would be way to go, save you a fortune. Good primer even in 1K is only £15 or so a litre. Good Mipa 2K etch primer filler only £60 a 5L kit, can do a car with that.

Paint the same, usually £25/L on 2K plus 10 spot for dast activator, again you could do whole back of car and then some.

I dont like single stage rattle cans Dan as they tend to be resistant to bugger all, soon as some fuel or fluid goes near the work is undone.

Depends where you want to go Dan.

Tart it up, forget the clear coat just colour it as it is.

If you want it good for a steam pressure wash and easy to clean never go back there, you would need to skip the rattle can colour really key up the surface, good 2K etch primer and then either Raptor tinted or good 2K top coat.

For the hardended coats like raptor, epoxies and most 2K solutions, its all about prep and adhesion and its not expensive, but putting them on top of rattle can colour is not best key.

So far i have spilled fuel, brake fluid, brake cleaner and then wiped the bits in epoxy only (suspension etc) clean with thinners and same with top coat over gravitex under arches.

I did rattle can the interior parts of the car, I cant go near them with even brake cleaner on my hands or they mark.

Coatings is a complete nightmare, but i would not waste the money on the clear coat.

[High_dan]

Ok, thanks for the advice. Will have to have a think. The plan at the moment was to just tidy it up, couldn’t bare to put the new engine in with bits of rust, etc. At the moment I’m trying to get everything working correctly and reliable. In the future going to have the paintwork sorted by a professional.

Is it easy to buy the colour mixed up?

Will look into a paint gun etc.

[High_dan]

Something like this?

https://www.sgs-engineering.com/sc6c-k1-sgs-6l-oil-free-direct-drive-mini-air-compressor-5pc-kit?gclid=Cj0KCQjws_r0BRCwARIsAMxfDRhuC2PAam4G5JeOXvslUId5BxuPogmCwsbbnipYJoAcayYDpvvLc9IaAh1UEALw_wcB

[John A. Ross]

Dan

I would go more for something with a little more HP and a bit better flow.

This seems a tidy solution

https://www.sgs-engineering.com/sc24s-24l-compressor-hose

Gun wise forthe eposy and nasty coats I would not use a decent gun, I use the cheap ones from Lidle/Aldi 1.4mm air cap and throw away when stuffed.

Top coat wise you would be better with a decent gun, the air caps are better.

https://www.spraygunsdirect.co.uk/index.php/a-n-i-f1-ns-budget-gravity-spraygun.html#sthash.1QPvNxSU.dpbs

But if you are after and think you will use them

Touch up (1.2 )
Top Coats or clear (1.4/1.5)
Epoxies and primer (1.8)

Or Ebay, just make sure its a HVLP gun. Most decent guns will work at 40 PSI (10psi at cap) but make sure air volume wise which is the most important part is OK, hence the better CFM volume compressor above.

[High_dan]

Ok John, thanks for the advice. Like anything, you start with naivety and excited and soon full down a rabbit hole of extra work and learning.

That compressor looks neat and not too expensive. Youtube education on spraying started last night, is the raptor hard to spray?

How and where do you get the tint made up? Can it be ordered online?

[John A. Ross]

Dan

Raptor is not a top coat so goes on with a little texture anyway.

By tint I mean actual Glenalmond Green paint.

You would mix the "tint" first so if its 2K you would need to mix that first, then add the volume to the raptor mix which is 4+1

As it fills the bottle and leave little to mix with I had Jim use 1/2 Raptor kit first, add tint, thin 10% and he just sprayed it on.

This is Jims and he prepped tis all himself (he hates paint)






I like the finish.


I see BRU already had some repairs and a respray befor the classics monthly spread.

[High_dan]

Compressor ordered ! Spray gun and bits ordered. Wish me luck .