Dont envy you Dan, hydraulic fluid next worst horrible gunk to ork with after hypoid oil
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BRU 434B And the Journey Begins - First Engine Removal and more
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I did the Carb!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL Base set up worked and the engine started first go on dyno and idled. Andy changed the idle jet one size and main on one choke two sizes if i remember correctly what he told me. You need a good engine to be able to set up a carb properly, you also need a good carb to make an engine run properly.
Dan how is the throttle pedal feel, full throttle?
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Sorry mike, mike did a cracking job on carb and the linkage for me and supplied the fuel pump which is working perfectly! And not to loud.
video of carb linkage working. This is with carpet removed. Is that fully open? Sure as hell drives like it is.
Managed to bleed the clutch in the end, had to remove the slave and make a tool up to hold the piston back. Once I did this bled after a couple of goes.
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Looks to be. Best to check by getting someone to press it to the floor and you try and see if you can open throttle on carb more. You can adjust the throttle linkage on the round bar between the two ball joints to shorten or lengthen it. you want to make sure you have full throttle with carpets in but also check that if you press hard on pedal into carpet you are not bottoming out the linkage and straining the cable.
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Sorry Dan, no idea
My one and only experince of that
I had an issue with that (usually when using the box as a brake down hill) for a bit
Symptom was the same, leave it for a bit and restart. Vapour lock, could be, but that should have been a "thing" from day 1, it wasn't. No fuel in line. Manually bring some fuel up and re-attach to pump, off it would go. Otherwise it would crank all day and nothing.
Ended up doing 3 things
Blowing lines out back to tank in case bottom part was crusty (as mechanical pump had crud in it clogging up mesh)
Cleaned out tank and fitted one of Bobs in tank filters
Went great after that, I could not see anything in pump,
Then it came back just to challenge me
At a guess all that was left was the pump valves waere intermittantly failing to seal so the fuel was not at pump inlet ready to deliver so changed to electric and just in case the vapour lock voodoo was cast on me re-routed the line away from the cam cover
All good
But you are already electric and have constant pressure
Only other run issues I had ended up being a really and i mean really crappy gasket in the manifolds (came from bob) where it failed at number 1 cylinder TWICE on 2 different engines.
End of gasket went from being fibrous to almost like bakelite and cracked, the crack must have been open/ closed depending on heat and teh air leak was crapping out the idle.
In both case when removed the sections at edge of number one actually fell apart like broken china.
John
/ John
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Thanks John, I think it’s vapour lock as with the new exhaust I can’t fit the heat shield anymore. I’ve ordered a laser thermometer to check temperatures and To keep an eye on the actually temperature of the engine.
Gauge is reading 85ish And holding with driving around the hills of Devon, it’s a very cheap gauge so probably not that accurate. Do modern gauges have a built in voltage stabiliser?
Also must be something about oil pressure gauges as mine isn’t working either lol.
I’m going for a longish drive on Sunday for wife’s birthday so will see what happens then.
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Could be a bit of debris under needle valve causing it to leak slightly so the fuel level in float bowl is incorrect allowing fuel to slosh over onto main jets. Did you wire fuel pump to a switch that you turn off before turning engine off and allowing pressure in fuel line and against needle valve and floats to dissipate so whilst the vehicle is not running you do not have 3 psi from fuel line pressing on the adjustment tang and the float pushing in the other direction ( over time this alters float height i would be surprised if this has happened so soon). Get hold of the rotor arm and check that it can be rotated from a firm stop through a smooth spring resisted movement to a firm stop and then springs back smoothly to a solid stop. I am sure Andy will have made sure all that was correct but for the 10 seconds it takes to check worth a look. So when it was set up on dyno and stop was in position X so timing set at that and then a few heat cycles of the engine and some miles done the advance mechanism could be return a mm or so further back and taking the idle timing from what is was set at to a couple of degrees less. What is your idle speed set at ?
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Thanks mike, just done circa 130 miles, of a mixture of country roads, steep hills and dual carriageway way.
with periodic stops to check the engine temp with a digital laser thermometer. Block And head was between 76 degrees c and 85 degrees c.
what is the ideal temp for the engine? The gauge is reading a lot higher but is a very cheap one.
The problem with stalling when coming to a stop down hill continues and if I come to a complete stop is then impossible to start unless I push it onto the flat or up hill.
tomorrow going to whip the carb of and check the float level and clean in case some debris from the new fuel line is stuck somewhere.
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