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Damn, at least its lasted the decades Dave, had 2 Intermotor ones crap out in me in a month, Intermotor points l;asting well, drive from Stirring to Errol and crap out !
Damn, at least its lasted the decades Dave, had 2 Intermotor ones crap out in me in a month, Intermotor points l;asting well, drive from Stirring to Errol and crap out !
NOS still the best buy for these bits
This was a non Lucas cap , no idea what one but anyhoo its crapped oot now
Ive been doing key hole surgery on Barnaby .
Yep real actually key hole stuff sorting out the ignition switch , i have the rebuilt electricery stuff but the key barrel is quite knacked , im sure its not correct that you can pull the key oot and leave it running or the fact the keys fall oot whilst driving leaving the ignition on .
Thing is i wanted to keep the same key as it also fits the door and tailgate .
So having pulled it apart it became obvious the 5 tiny springs that operate the tumbler doodabs were shot and had no spring left to hold the key in .
I had another NOS one with the wrong key serial number and obviously the wrong number however being new it had new springs .
Anyhoo to cut a long story short i removed all the 5 springs from the new one and by removing each tumble in turn on mine replacing the springs one by one i got it working ,
not only that the keys now wont pull out or fall out whilst driving
Penny is for scale , only had three springs left in it that still resembled springs ( one twanged into the alternate universe ) , no wonder the key kept falling oot
The springs are a buffer, but now you have seen how they work Dave its not that hard to make the levers for the lock to match whatever key you have.
If you have some old locks you are looking for the levers with the smallest amount removed from them and save those, you can make new levers to suit most any key then and keep the keys "alike"
I out plastic box over these during surgery as those springs can ping even behind my spex and nearly get the eyeball !
Wish I had done that with liams ignition lock for his Susuki when modding a used one to replace his, the sping you lost will now have joined it in the parallel universe
Gonna be changing Barnabys front bearings soon - its on me to do list .
As usual i just build up a spare pair of hubs and just swap em over as ive got ready here .
Anyhoo - two Timken NOS bearing sets - one UK made and one USA made .
Go figure !!
And yes ive changed the outer races as well
Seeing as its been in many separate bits lately a 500 mile checkover on Barnaby was required .
Oil use - well a bit but its a 1974 engine rebuilt 15 years ago so il pretend I didnt see it = fixed .
Mixture seems fine although No. 1 runs a bit weaker than No. 2 which runs a tad richer - No. 3 and No. 4 are perfect - Again il pretend I didnt see that for the above reason stated in the oil consumption = fixed .
Coolant use = zero = fixed .
The clunk from the rear has now gone = fixed itself
Starts " right now " hot or cold " so thats still normal .
Need to check the new front wheel bearings for play now its done some miles but other than that its good enough until
sommat else falls off or self destructs
Plug pics are in order :)
Weird how a really simple task can turn into a nightmare .
Three way bleed valve thingy has been leaking for an age on Barnaby . Its been leaking between the valve thread and the three way bit . Anyhoos the valve lever then left the building so thought id just change the valve bit.
Could I get it to shift - hell no
Nae bother - il just change the whole thing .
Therein was tother issue - the nut that holds it to the mounting bracket was rusted solid - cue me over a fair few weeks a bit at a time sawing the nut through - 5 minute stints at a time - eventually today I got it off .
So now ive got a leak free three way valve ( with a home botched lever ) held on the bracket with a brass nut drowned in copper grease .
Time for coffee
Yet more abject bodgery .
This time the three way bleed valve is still playing up on Barnaby .
So its not leaking past the main thread anymore , the valve itself is instead ---- and I aint got another one
Still lateral thing cap on I remembered ive got a few brass adaptor doodahs .
One has the perfect tapered thread that screws into the three way valve doodab and the internal thread on tother end is the exact same as a brake bleed valve .
So this is the result - thus far zero leakage and it does bleed exactly as before .
Time will tell if its a leak free bodge up but thus far its more gooder
PS expansion overflow is in fact a drinks bottle
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