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Petula - time to start fitting bits and bringing some shine to her

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  • #61
    Busy morning Click image for larger version

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    Once polished changes this
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    into this
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    just by slotting aluminium cap over original plastic cap with a blob of glue placed in a ring on original cap.

    Filler caps tomorrow, well start them anyway. Same idea , glue them on to original cap.

    Bob
    PS Trouble is back log of real work is mounting up!

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    • #62
      Very nice, can see these selling well.
      Patrick McGrorty

      100% MK 1 just as rootes intended it, no mods, no problem

      Comment


      • #63
        First part bought for my 998 project Click image for larger version

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        I use this style on the AC engines and have never had a problem using it.
        Just need to source everything else , and decide if l'm doing bulk of work , should be fairly straight forward.

        And make time for those caps, easier said than done

        Bob

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        • #64
          Gary Gary Whitaker will be rebuilding his engine shortly after getting the machining work done by Andy Jones at Shrigley.

          As you are both engineers/tool makers/machinest background you should start a discussion on teh engine rebuild as you go.

          Lots of people thing Imp engines are complex but a simpler power plant you would be struggling to find.

          Its all just tolerances, gaps, tolerances and input from folks withe xperience like Andy.

          John
          / John

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          • #65
            What's point of engine cradle if wrong engine is loaded in it?

            Couldn't be bothered to change it over , once l found one in cradle was curly edged , other one is numbered 7010166 , but isn't curly edged (any details anyone?)
            now stripped, apart from crank pulley , don't have a puller here , intention is to covert to 998 .

            998 Block l bought measures up at 72.65 , so probably best opened up a tad (do oversized pistons go up by 0.010" in stages ? same as crank shaft journals?)

            Are the mains caps numbered? couldn't see anything , but covered in oil\crud, also noticed that there is a lug on side of main cap (just the one side) is it possible to put main caps on 180 degrees out ? haven't tried anything like that yet , but if they're not numbered ?

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            Will then really have to sort out engines , keepers and sellers , keep two 998s , have plus 30 block with all ready to be put back together , that can go now.
            Me thinks!

            Bob

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            • #66
              Bob, did that fall over ?

              I made a dedicated plate for the imp engine as I found the universal legs useless, just used what scrap I had around

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              Yes there aree several blocks

              Curly blocks (match chamber countor of head)

              Standard straight edge blocks which have as you would expect, a straight edge at cylinder head

              Standard straight edge blocks which have oil drains in side, usually sport or L4 onwards

              The main bearing caps are line bored, so they cannot be swapped to another engine, nor swapped in place or reversed. They need to come in/out as they were built originally

              Same for CAM carrier.




              / John

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              • #67
                No it was rolled onto its side so l didn't have lift to engine off cradle , easier to get apart on floor.
                I DO realise that the caps need to go back as they came off , it's just that l couldn't see any markings , and as l say there is a lug on one side of cap , is this some sort of way of telling which way round they should go?
                The block l'll use needs the oil drain hole drilling and tapping .
                So you can run your engine up on that stand then , by the looks of it?
                GOOD IDEA.

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                • #68
                  Bob you are an engineer so will match mark them during disassembly anyway! Rear main can only go in rear position. Centre cap is different to front as centre bearing has thrust bearings in block side, the tangs of the bearing shells go opposite each other. You will have to try very hard to get them in the wrong order.

                  The imp engine is no more complicated than any other engine. They do have their own quirks when you are getting very high performance out of them but as a standard engine right up to home built 998 with a high lift cam porting bigger valves etc, so long as someone who knows what they are doing has skimmed block, pistons, head and altered combustion chambers to get the compression correct for you the build is easy.

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                  • #69
                    Bob

                    No, I never start an engine on that stand. Thats only a compression check after dry spin (no plugs, just get rpessure up) hence the starter

                    John



                    / John

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                    • #70
                      Just been sorting stuff AGAIN
                      Found TWO likely candidates for conversion so will be going ahead with boring blocks out.
                      Got too many engines so loaded one on imp forum sales , curly edged block , unknown history , spins over nicely , was going to be spare .
                      Get rid of that and there's still 4 ,but nothing built complete.

                      Bob

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                      • #71
                        Bob, if the crank is good and not running under sized bearings give Andy Jones a shout. He was always looking for good cranks.
                        / John

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                        • #72
                          Bob

                          Forgot to say, I made this up in no time for pulling the crank and for those stubborn rear hubs and drive shafts (think some have never been removed in their life !)

                          https://www.hillmanimp.org/forum/wor...-pulley-puller


                          It fits into the small threaded holes in the crank pulley, they are there usually just covered in muck. Seen too many people bend the pulleys by using those 3 legged devils.

                          Same for rear hubs, the pits between centres is oh so slightly different but I made the legs long and loose on my puller so they fit in the threaded openings where the rear backplate secures too and makes light work pushing out a stubborn shaft.

                          I hate seeing hammers and blocks of wood used there, sometimes neccessary if needs must but not when in workshop.

                          You could make a really nice universal one in no time for the "imp toolbox"

                          John

                          / John

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                          • #73
                            More toys from Bob at spares
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                            Bolts etc ordered for a pair of strengthening plate kits for anticipated 998 conversions.
                            Nice straight forward job , blocks gone off to dippers today , no great rush but handy to have stuff ready for that lull in real work (if l ever get one)
                            First op finished on block number 9 , one more left to finish top face.
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                            10. 5 Stones in weight before any cutting , how many imp crankcases is that?

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                            • #74
                              The clutch pressure plate looks very clean.
                              Patrick McGrorty

                              100% MK 1 just as rootes intended it, no mods, no problem

                              Comment


                              • #75
                                Originally posted by PMCG View Post
                                The clutch pressure plate looks very clean.
                                I should hope so as it's refurbished!


                                Latest Imp work , machined 3 flywheels (lightened) turned scroll off three cranks for rear oil seal conversion
                                intention is to convert 2off 875s to 998s , l already have a 998 bottom end which l'm going oversize on , then l can put one on shelf , one in car and flog one on as a kit
                                also making block strengthening kits for them At least the Imp blocks can be thrown around as they're so light, not like those cast iron blocks.
                                Nearly always something new to think about!
                                NOTE to self
                                Don't forget filler cap covers!

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                                Bob

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