poly bushes on front suspension

[Petowner]

John
You wrote about welding bar across the nuts that are effectively above the mounting bracket when on the car , l was thinking of making a plate with tapped holes, possibly screwed in place by another screw , is it worth doing the same for rear mounting points ? from memory you can get a spanner up into slot ,but it is a bit fiddly if l remember correctly.. Need to have another look .
Springs and shocks will hopefully be here next week so possibly have her back on ground for next weekend

Selling parts on ebay to help out with costs

[John A. Ross]

Bob

These ons on rear bracket, near impossible to get to when bracket is up, the bracket does not need removed but its far better to seat the suspension with the bolts loose.

Mk 1 brackets have single holes, Mk 2 have slots, so you can tighten them up after clamping the bushes.

For the front bracket not really needed as you can get to each bolt easy enough and just put nut at front, worst case its 4 bolts upwards to drop the front brackets completely.

Its those back nuts buried inside the steering rack mount that is the pain.

:Correction (cheers Mike)

I actually flip them round, the bolt comes from the top and thats what is welded across so it hangs through the hole always

See images here

John

[John A. Ross]

Looking damn fines also bob, great colour in this weather !

That lift seems to be extremely handy and good lift height Jim McGurk PMCG Paul Conroy Colimp66

Was that the CJ autos one ?

- J

[Petowner]

Yes CJ Autos , it has three width settings , comes set with narrowest , tried it out at that , but felt it would be better on middle width , l modified it slightly so l could store it on the floor and roll the car over it, it's a metre off the ground at front , idea is you lift with two wheels on the deck , and if you've got it in correct position you can use it like a see saw , or just have it level with all wheels off the ground , l've had no problems getting pipework etc into tunnel , and work on suspension .
As far as suspension l was thinking it best locked up when on floor , initially when l've read about welding nuts together l was thinking it was nuts to rear of frame holding the wishbones in position (numbered 42) , now having looked l know it's the nuts you have pictured.

Yes car colour looks spot on .

[John A. Ross]

Yip, sorry if I confused matters, it can be "nuts" sometimes and its rumoured in some places i have a few loose !

[John A. Ross]

Bob, which one did you get, the CL01 ?

[moose549]

I don't weld the nuts i put bolts in from the top and then weld a bar across them this way you have a floating captive stud to line up with the hole in the bracket so much easier.

[John A. Ross]

Mike

Indeed, thanks for the correction and it was actually what I meant but got fixed on the where and forgot that in the how.

Sorry Bob

[John A. Ross]

Bob

I also found this one which shows the line routes (standard) and a couple of bits of additional line protection where the cross over.

Not quite as neat as Mike work on the clan though

[Petowner]

YES CL01 is the Lift & tilt l bought , thank for input on this , like the idea of bolts from above ,might go with that.
John is that an extra hole in near side for fuel pipe? (just behind section for spare wheel)

[John A. Ross]

Bob, which picture ?? The green chammy belly ? Should be no extra holes

Those pipes are standard position so brake to union under drivers footwell, fuel up middle (I have it wrapped in slit rubber tube) and clutch towards passenger footwell then inside and over to pedal box.

[John A. Ross]

This lift ?



https://cjautosheywood.co.uk/product...-1-5-ton-cl01/

[Petowner]

Just looked under Pet ,and can see that what l was referring to is the clutch pipe ? forgot it's covered by steering rack mounting plate or very nearly , my mistake.
Yes that lift , l haven't attached the silver frame seen on the right hand side , didn't need to , so haven't bothered, it's wider at that end of unit so have placed that at rear of garage and car rolls over it while stored on the floor ( l do remove two parts to do that though)
Unit rolls on wheels to slide under the car from the side , there are two wheels facing 90 degrees to those ,which you pick unit up from other end and you can wheel it around , It is heavy though.
You can use a heavy duty drill to operate it.

[Petowner]

Made a plate to go above wishbone\steering rack mounting plate with welded in bolts so bolts drop through rack mounting plate , opposite way to how they came out of factory . (weldings not my forte)
Thanks for pointing this out as it's a mod worth doing (still needs coat of paint)
Also made a plate with tapped holes that rear mounting bolts for wishbone attachment , from memory it can be a bit awkward getting lock nuts up into slot between mounting plate and floor, tapped hole in bottom is to put a bolt in to hold and move plate to correct position to line up with bolts.
l also drilled and tapped two holes to meet the 3\8" UNF bolt holes and inserted grubb screws to lock wishbone fixing bolts in final position as l have got rid of nyloc nuts .
Thought about lock wiring but restricted space makes that a no go.

New springs arrived so Bob , now for Shocks (NO l already know the price)

[John A. Ross]

Lovely work indeed Bob.The rear threaded block just makes so much sense and i would never have thought about that. Totally cool